Letter from the Editor

The first time I visited Lisbon I did what most people do — climbed to a viewpoint, ate too many pastéis, took a photograph of a tram. The fifth time, I sat in the same café for four mornings in a row and let the city come to me. This issue is for the fifth-time travelers.

"The rooms we return to are almost never the ones we photograph."

— Ines Marchetti

Elsewhere in these pages, Aiko Tanaka walks us through a Kyoto tea room that has served the same three families for four generations, and Marcus Vale — the most reluctant interview we have ever published — finally sits down to talk.